W
hen you think of "olive oil," what geographic area comes to mind? Italy, Spain, Greece, Portugal…or California? Most Americans would think of one of these four European countries because they produce 93% of the world's olive oil. You find it surprising that while the golden state produces only a tiny percentage of olive oil for the US market, it produces 99% of all Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) made in the USA.
"California is the dominant player in the EVOO market due to the favorable Mediterranean climate and terroir that favors grapes as well as olives, and olive growers who are committed to producing the highest quality product using the latest equipment and technologies," said Patricia Darragh, executive director of the California Olive Oil Council (COOC). The Monterey Bay Farmers Market is pleased to have two such EVOO growers/producers participating at the markets: Valencia Creek Farms who makes Colline di Santa Cruz and Belle Farms.
EVOO is enjoying a healthy upsurge in demand in California and the US. According to the California Olive Oil Council (COOC), the market is growing an average of 20% per year. This trend is fueled by increasing awareness of the health benefits of high quality olive oil, the buy local movement, and economic factors that are causing people to eat at home more often.
California growers are stepping up to meet the demand. Olives went from number 58 on the California state crop list to number 43 between 2008 and 2009. The 200 producers of EVOO who are certified by the COOC are adding between 6,000 and 8,000 acres of trees per year. The largest concentration of olive orchards is in the Sacramento Valley, followed by the Central Valley. There are significant pockets of olive oil production throughout the state such as San Luis Obispo, Sonoma County (which has the largest number of small producers in the state) and the Central Coast.
Local History
Santa Cruz natives may remember that in the 1930s and 40s Santa Cruz had a small olive oil industry in the De Laveaga area that was operated by Italian-Americans. During the 1940s, the Dominican Sisters at the San Jose Mission in Fremont produced EVOO. The olive was for consumption, but during World War II, they also sent oil to Texas and Hawaii to anoint the sick and dying. The decline of olive oil production in this area could be due to the Americanization of second generation immigrants, and the advent of processed fats like Crisco and margarine which became the rage in kitchens across America in the 1950s. Today there are at four commercial grower/producers of EVOO in Santa Cruz County.
Standards for EVOO Coming to a Market Near You
The majority of olive oil producing countries outside the US follows the regulations of the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) for defining and labeling olive oil. In order to be labeled “extra virgin” an olive oil must meet certain laboratory criteria for oleic acid content, flavor and aroma criteria. Unfortunately, the IOOC standards for extra virgin olive oil are not enforced in the US, so the market is flooded with mislabeled and adulterated oil. The good news is that as a result of the efforts of the COOC, the USDA are establishing standards for EVOO that will take effect on October 24, 2010. These new standards will follow the IOOC standards, and provide the information consumers need to make an informed choice.
Since 1992, olive oil growers in California have been able to have their oil certified as EVOO by the COOC. Certification is based on the submission of a lab analysis that verifies that the oil is EVOO and a taste test conducted by a COOC panel.
About Colline di Santa Cruz and Belle Farms
While both growers produce their oils from Tuscan trees, the oil has its own very distinctive character based on a number of factors including the terroir (the environment of the orchard: climate, location and soil), the blend of varieties, and how ripe the fruit is when harvested.
Colline di Santa Cruz is produced from a blend of Maurino, Leccino, Pendolino, Frantoio and Taggiasca olive varieties. Chris describes her oil as "fragrant, fruity and pungent. Balanced and delicate with a spicy finish, it reflects Italian varietals grown in our unique microclimate."
Belle Farms Extra Virgin Olive Oil is produced from a harvest blend of five traditional Tuscan olive varieties including Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino, Maurino and Moraiolo. "This combination of olives produces a distinct and well-balanced olive oil with a slightly peppery finish," says Marguerite.
More and more farmers market customers are discovering the wonderful flavor and qualities of real Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Be sure to visit Chris and Marguerite at the market and enjoy a taste of their outstanding oil.
