Edible Paradise

RECIPES: Baby Beets Glazed with Orange, Vanilla and Cardamom, Red Beet Salad and Dressing, Caramelized Tokyo Turnips, Indian Vegetable Stew, Braised Greens with Shitake Mushrooms topped with Baked Fennel

Now I know some folks think that root vegetables are plain and boring, but I have to confess to loving them. I find them easy to prepare and forgiving when I am distracted, and the sweet and slightly sharp flavors many of them have are wonderful with those slow cooked dishes I like to make during the winter months. Their sturdiness lets them be cut into cubes, slices, wedges, and batons. Roots can be prepped a day or two in advance and kept in the refrigerator. They can be cooked in so many ways – roasted, mashed, sautéed and glazed.

If you want some bright warm colors on the plate, consider this dish: glazed sauté of Tokyo turnips and watermelon radish. It may sound odd, but radishes lose a lot of the bite and that aggressive smell when gently blanched just long enough to lose that raw edge, and are a cooked vegetable similar to turnips and rutabagas. Lightly peel the radishes so you don't lose the green edge, then cut into wedges. Do the same with some turnips, and then blanch the radishes and turnips. Drain, then add a pinch of sugar to the pan and let it caramelize a little. Add a touch of oil and butter, add the vegetables, and cook over medium-low to caramelize. The radishes turn a lovely pinkish mauve edged in light green, and the turnips, for the most part, are white - a lovely side dish to liven up a plate.

For the easiest of dishes, peel and cut a bunch of roots to roughly the same size and shape. Toss in oil, and put into a roasting dish. Scatter herbs all over them, then cover and cook thirty minutes in a four hundred twenty five degree oven. After thirty minutes, uncover the pan, and give the pan a shake. Cook fifteen minutes longer to finish the vegetables by browning them and crisping the edges.

There are some wonderful carrots right now, too. Tender and sweet, they cook up nicely with cinnamon and ginger, and my kids are happy to find them in their lunches. I have also been using celeriac, also known as celery root, with roasts, mashed potatoes, and salads as well. T&L Coke Farms and Pinnacle both carry celeriac.

Speaking of roots, don't forget the Jerusalem artichokes, also known as sunchokes. Jerusalem artichokes come in tan and a sort of reddish color, and range from slightly ugly round-ish lumps to the outright ugly miss-happen clots. Do not judge these roots by their covers, though. They have a pleasant nutty flavor reminiscent of sunflower seeds (to which they are related) and a texture, when raw, similar to water chestnut. Thinly sliced, they go well in salads, but these roots are great as a soup base, roasted, and cut into coins and then sautéed.

A couple words about sunchokes: they can make some folks gassy, and they are touted as being good for diabetes. I suggested to a diabetic friend of mine to try these, and the first time he ate sunchokes, his blood sugar dropped 25 points. He eats them regularly now and his blood sugar levels are lower. He still takes his medication, but swears by Jerusalem artichokes. I make no claims, just putting this out there as one more possible draw for a vegetable I am quite fond of.

Shoots and Leaves

As I cruised the farmers market this past week I couldn't help but notice how the stalls and the produce reflected the wet winter weather we have been having. The leafy-things like chard, collards, kale, Lacinato, and Russian kale were smaller than they were when the weather had been sunny, but the leaves themselves were supple and tender and sweeter tasting as well. I figured with all the rain, the leaves have plenty of moisture in them making them tender and diluting the minerals that can give greens a "strong" taste. The cloud cover might slow down the growth as well, plus the fields are hard to work when they are as wet as they must be, so farmers take to market what they have.

To my mind, this is prime time for kale and winter greens. Although they can take longer to cook, they stand up to the heartier foods I like during the cold and wet of winter. I like to braise meats and chicken, or do roasts. These dishes tend to be heartier with richer flavors, and the sturdiness of something like kale cooked with red wine, vinegar, and onions pairs up well with this winter fare.

I also enjoy greens with the chewiness of whole grains like wheat berries or brown rice. Add some mushrooms to the mix and I think it's a combo you can't beat. I noticed that there are several vendors with a variety of greens. Windmill Farms, Pinnacle, and Route 1 all had kale (sometimes called curly kale), Russian kale, Lacinato (also known as Cavolo Nero and – I hate to say it – dino kale), and collard greens. Route 1 also had red kale, which I find to be a little milder than the green. (Interesting side note: Did you know that kale is so important to the Scots diet that saying "Come to kale" is the same as inviting someone to eat with you?)

For lighter, quicker cooking greens, both Nagamine Farms and Bar-D Ranch had mustard greens, and Nagamine had mizuna, which can be used as a salad or given a quick flash in a hot sauté pan with some ginger, mirin, and a touch of soy sauce and used as a great bed for fish.

Speaking of lighter greens, if you fancy a salad there are some lettuces out there, but for a change of pace, check out Four Sisters Farm. They have watercress, arugula, endive, and other greens as well. These make a great salad this time of year. The flavors are all bright and sharp, and stand up to the heartier flavors of winter fare. Toss with some nuts and thin slices of mushrooms and dried cherries, then dress with a vinaigrette made with a little nut oil and one of our local extra virgin olive oils. Or, make a salad of cress, arugula, and some microgreens from New Natives –  mix would be a perfect foil for chicken braised with Del Real dates. If you find yourself with some rocket or cress that is wilting, don't compost it, just give it a quick sauté with some shallots and balsamic vinegar and use it for crostini.

This is still a great time for artichokes and Brussels sprouts. Nice big artichokes, and I saw Brussels sprouts in both large and small sizes. For something new for your sprouts, try sautéing them in a little oil, then when they are almost and show some caramelizing, add a little butter and maple syrup. This one even works on avowed Brussels sprout haters.

If you want a break from roots, or want a hamburger substitute, try a Portobello burger. No meat in this one! Use one Portobello mushroom per person – get a big one that has the edge of the cap still rolled under with lighter colored gills. Cut off the stem, and then marinate the mushrooms in a vinaigrette made with one part balsamic and one part red wine vinegar, garlic, and lots of thyme and rosemary. Marinate for an hour or so and then drain. Roast in a 450°F oven for roughly 15 minutes, gills up. When done, serve on a toasted soft roll or bread with a touch of mayo, soft lettuce and a slice of Nagamine Farms hot-housed tomatoes with a sprinkle of coarse sale, and you're ready to go!

I've made myself hungry – time to go raid the refrigerator. See you at the market!