Edible Paradise

RECIPES: Ratatouille, Yogurt and Eggplant Dip, Classic Tuscan Marinara, Papa O’s Salade Niçoise, Sautéed Eggplant, Mozzarella, Tomato and Basil Packets

Although our cool summer temperatures and grey days with the marine layer seem to be lingering longer this year than usual, the stalls at the farmers market are abundant with summer fruits and vegetables. So many things to get excited about, so many possibilities for the table lining the aisles! The fragrance alone caused me a moment of euphoria last time I was there – it was as I walked past vendors selling basil on both sides of the aisle and came up to a booth with bundles of lavender that literally stopped me in my tracks. It was like an instant vacation to the Mediterranean.

Speaking of the Mediterranean, now is the perfect time to make things like Salade Nicoise, pesto, ratatouille, baba ganoush, fresh tomato sauces for pastas, caponata and tapenade – foods of summer, to be sure.

Munak Farms has returned with their colorful stall full of tomatoes and melons, and the sweet fragrance from the melons is amazing, as well as the taste. Melons and tomatoes are also available at Pinnacle, as well as delicious, ripe tomatoes at Nagamine and KT Farm.

Also at KT Farm is a stunning array of eggplant, including the widely known globe eggplant (the great big one that usually pops into mind when someone says “eggplant”) to more exotic varieties. The lavender Japanese and the darker Chinese eggplants are both longer and more slender than the globe. They cook up firmer and are usually less bitter, with the Japanese being the mildest. These eggplant are great for making gratins.

Coming soon to market will be the smaller pale Thai or Indian eggplants used in stews. These are usually much more bitter than most Western palates are used to, and have a high seed ratio, but they are treasured by those who know them. They also have Italian eggplants, which look a bit like globe eggplants, but are smaller. These and the globe eggplants are great for things like baba ganoush, caponata, and eggplant parmigiana. Remember to look for eggplants that feel heavy for their size and have a less pronounced dimple on the end away from the stem. This is a way to avoid those eggplants that seem to be really seedy.

Peppers are also hitting the market now, and soon we will have lots of spicy chilis as well as sweet peppers. Peppers and eggplant, along with summer-fresh tomatoes all put me in the mood for ratatouille, and we now are getting great onions to round it out. Of course, it isn’t really ratatouille without zucchini (courgette in French), but no worries there as there are plenty of zucchini to be found, both green and bright yellow varieties. From tiny little ones to be cooked whole, to larger firmer ones that are just right for stewing or grilling, they are here in abundance. Also to be found are patty-pan squash-the ones that look like flying saucers-and crooknecks. Look for these at Mello-Dy Ranch, a great source for chilis, too, when they hit, as well.

What astounded me most at market recently was the huge selection of fresh beans – I spotted at least eight varieties. I saw purple beans (which typically turn green when cooked through), yellow “wax” beans (which tend to cook up mote delicate than green beans), haricot vert (a.k.a. filet beans, the wonderful thin green beans with big flavor, the ones typically found in Salade Nicoise), a couple varieties of green beans, Dragon or Yard Long beans (great for Chinese stir fry), Romano beans (both young delicate ones for sautéing and bigger ones perfect for braising), and something completely new to me: fresh Scarlet Runner beans.

Manny Netto called me over to show me some Scarlet Runner beans, and I have to say I was not impressed on first viewing. They looked as if they might be rather fibrous, and Manny knew I was thinking that. He had me try a bite raw, and that really was the right thing to do. Although the surface of the bean is textured so it looks tough and wrinkly, this bean was incredibly crisp and tender at the same time, with amazing sweetness. Needless to say, I took some home with me. When I got them home, I experimented with them a little, trying some raw, blanched, and some sautéed in a very hot pan until browned a little. The sautéed version was the favorite here, and the kids were trying to steal mine. Needless to say I will be getting more next week, and I recommend you get some too. By the way, Scarlet Runners usually appear as a dried “shelly” bean later in the year. Big beans of a dark burgundy color with darker spots, Scarlet Runners are known for holding their shape and being sweet with a nutty taste. Lowell at Webb’s Farm usually has these.

Did you know that the traditional way of eating pesto in Genoa is with pasta called “trenette” (substitute linguine or my favorite, “perciatelli”) tossed with halved haricot vert and little potatoes? Webb Farms has little baskets of marble sized potatoes that are perfect for this preparation. Potatoes and pesto are surprisingly good together.

I think I’ll go grab one of my kids and play in the kitchen. I have some basil that needs using. And if you are at market, look for me – I will probably be the slightly manic looking guy darting from stall to stall, stopping periodically and giving the air a huge sniff. You should try it-it’s like a little vacation. See you at the market!