Edible Paradise

RECIPES: Celeriac Potato Gratin, Celery Root Remoulade with Bay Shrimp, Celeriac Salad, Celery Root Apple Salad

If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone pick up a celery root and say something like, “What is this, it’s so ugly!” I think I’d be quite well off. It’s funny, because in France the word céléri refers to the celery root (a.k.a. céléri-rave), whereas it is always céléri branche for the stalks Americans know and crunch for everything from dips to diets.

Celery root is also known as celeriac, and is one of three forms of celery; root, branch (or stalk), and leaf, but they are all variants of the same plant. It has only been in the last few years that celeriac has become popular on menus. It’s a shame because I think the flavor is quite nice. Interestingly enough, I see descriptions of celeriac that say it is milder than celery, and some say stronger. Here is my take on the flavor of celeriac: I think it tastes more intense, as if the flavor of celery were compacted, but it also is as if you were tasting it from far away, like hearing a song clearly, but from the next room. Where celery can have a strong sharpness to it, celeriac has an intense celery flavor, but without the bite that celery often has, especially the darker stalks. “Earthiness” is another adjective I hear used about celeriac, but not celery.

Another difference between the two is the texture – where celery is wet and crunchy, celeriac has a texture similar to turnip or carrot. When cooked, it has a smooth velvety texture. It makes a great soup, and I like to add celeriac to roasted vegetables and gratins. It also pairs well with other root vegetables, apples, chestnuts, and mushrooms.

In its raw form, celeriac has a lot of character and is toothsome, and makes an interesting addition to slaws and salads. A standard in most bistros in France is the famous céléri remoulade, a salad of grated celeriac dressed in a Dijon mustard spiked mayonnaise dressing.

When selecting celeriac, look for ones that are firm, and feel heavy for their size. When squeezed, there should be no give to them at all. Try to select celeriac with a uniform shape as these are easiest to peel, and smooth skinned ones tend to have a brighter flavor and better texture.

When it comes to peeling these roots, leave the peeler in the drawer. Use a sturdy knife to cut off the top and bottom of the root, and then use the knife to cut from the top down along the sides, peeling the side away from you. If this is intimidating, cut the root into half through the equator or quarters and then peel it. Celeriac will oxidize almost immediately, so have some water with lemon juice or vinegar handy and pop the peeled bits into the water if you are concerned about keeping it pale. To avoid getting the celeriac waterlogged, though, keep immersion time short.

Nutritionally, celeriac is fairly benign – low in calories with 42 per cup, with 8% of the USRDA of vitamin C, 5% each of iron and magnesium and 268 mg of potassium.

You’ll find celeriac at T & L Coke Farms, Webb’s Organic Farm, and Pinnacle at the Aptos Farmers Market.